A SLOW START Nov 1, 2007 12:00 PM
, By the Multichannel Merchant Staff
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Fall
may be light, but then nobody's expecting a blockbuster holiday season.
Trade group National Retail Federation projects an overall sales rise
of 4% — the weakest in the past five years, and below the 10-year sales
growth average of 4.8%.
“We're
seeing some mixed reports depending on particular clients,” says John
Lenser, president of consultancy Lenser. “Some are ahead of where they
need to be, and in other cases, some are significantly behind.”
The
early fall results are showing that Lenser's high-end clients are doing
fine, “but the mid-price retailers are struggling,” he says. “We think
it may have a lot to do with what's going out there in the housing
market. Those people who have bought homes in the $200,000 range and
they're on a shoestring budget just don't have the disposable income
and are spending cautiously.”
September
sales for the public companies support this theory. J.C. Penney Co.'s
direct sales for the month decreased 8.5%, to $260 million, compared
with $284 million in September 2006. The results were below company
guidance for a low single-digit increase. Internet sales for the Plano,
TX-based general merchant rose nearly 6.4%. Total company sales slipped
2.4%, to $1.62 billion; same-store sales fell 4.6%.
Meanwhile,
Dallas-based luxury merchant Neiman Marcus Group reported a 5.7% rise
in September sales for Neiman Marcus Direct, which consists of the
print catalog and online operations for Neiman Marcus and Horchow as
well as the Bergdorf Goodman Website. Total September revenue for the
cataloger/retailer increased 8.6%, to $466 million.
Then
again, upscale apparel merchant Nordstrom cut its forecast for
third-quarter profit, citing disappointing sales and bulging inventory.
Making the plan
Fall
sales at jewelry and decor merchant Ross-Simons increased in the low
single digits, which vice president of marketing Larry Davis says is
“strong and on plan.” From a planning perspective, he says, “we held
our promotional strategies constant to last year. We are prospecting
more, but have focused our prospecting on reactivating previous buyers
vs. finding all new buyers.”
Though
it's early in the season, results at Computer Gear are tracking to
forecast, says Mark Mackaman, vice president of operations. Sales are
5% higher than plan, he says, attributing the increase to selling on
Amazon.com as a preferred store.
It's
also due to merchandising efforts: “We have more of our own unique and
proprietary products in this year's catalogs,” says Mackaman.
What's
more, Computer Gear had trimmed catalog circulation 15% compared to
last year. “We prospect with break-even profitability as our goal,”
Mackaman says.
With
the increased costs of postage and paper, a few prospect and house list
segments that previously broke even in the past were forecasted to be
not profitable so Computer Gear dropped those segments from
fall/holiday mailings.
For
Griot's Garage, a cataloger of automotive tools, gifts and accessories
for the do-it-yourselfer, fall results are according to plan, says
Karen Ambos, circulation manager and database analyst, and better than
last year. She would not divulge exact sales and circulation
information, however.
Tools
cataloger Garrett Wade's sales for the fall were pretty much as
expected, says its senior vice president Pete Segal, though he wouldn't
provide specifics.
For
the latter part of the season — October into the holiday — Garret Wade
is reducing its circulation 14%, with the decrease coming from
prospecting. Segal says that part of the budget was re-allocated to
increased Web marketing.
“We
are betting that some, but not all of the marketing budget for the
fourth quarter, will be more effectively employed on the Web than it
would be in the more marginal outside lists,” Segal says. The company
will also put out a 72-page book in the early fall, but the holiday
books will have the same number of pages — 100 — as last year.
“While
the postage increase is a factor in our circulation, a significant
issue was also allocating some budget away from print and toward online
efforts,” Segal says. “Early next year, we will look back to see
whether that was a good call or not.”
Booming back to school
General fall sales growth may be sluggish for some, but the back-to-school season was a bonus for several mailers.
Take
Lillian Vernon, for instance. The gifts, housewares, and toys cataloger
dedicated a book this year to the category and increased circulation
for back-to-school products by nearly 30%. Its revenue so far is up 30%
over last year, says executive vice president of merchandising and
planning Michelle Gershkovich.
Why
the new catalog for back-to-school this year? “We had seen promise in
the category the prior year, and let the data drive our decision to
expand it,” Gershkovich says. She says the secret to the book's success
was low-price products. “We added many items with price points of $9.98
or less, which drove units and orders,” she explains.
The
cataloger also “took a new spin on items like notebooks and offered
them personalized. We also did a lot of product development and
increased the number of exclusive items,” she says.
In
addition to messenger bags and pilot cases, Lillian Vernon expanded its
assortment in school supplies with items such as notebooks,
calculators, and colored personalized pencils. The result? “We saw
response soar,” Gershkovich says.
School
uniforms cataloger French Toast reports that its August sales were up
10% compared to 2006, particularly in Florida and Texas. Why from those
two states?
Florida
and Texas opted to push back the start of their respective school
openings, says French Toast president Michael Arking. This helped goose
up sales later in the season. “We had a strong August, but July was
kind of flat. We hoped [July] would be up 15% and it was more like 3%.”
Then
again, the Dayton, NJ-based mailer had increased its catalog
circulation 20%, Arking says, due in part to school marketing and
promotional strategies. Next year its patterns will be different:
“We'll make more relevant offers later in the season,” he says. “We'll
postpone free shipping and discount offers and push them into August.”
Peace
Frogs, a manufacturer/marketer of apparel and accessories for teens,
gets the best grade for back-to-school business: Its sales rose 29%
over 2006, though it reduced catalog circulation 50%.
“We
were up 29% in June, July, and August,” says Peacefrogs
founder/president Catesby Jones. “It's way beyond what we expected — we
expected around 10%.”
Why
the big increase? Jones credits a more effective e-mailing campaign.
“We built our list up over a period of time. We're not mailing as many
catalogs.” Peacefrogs is using its catalog to prospect, “but last year
almost all of our orders came in over the Web,” Jones says. “Young
people are on the Web.”